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The airframe's together, the canopy's glued in - time for masking and primering and then checking if everything's acceptable. Glueing canopies is a weird thing. I've been watching a lot of Phil's videos lately, and the one recurring item is his warnings about it. Don't use superglue, you'll fog the canopy. Don't use liquid cement, you might fog the canopy. Use PVA glue or Kristal Klear, you won't fog the canopy. Frankly, I've been using superglue to fix my canopies since day 1, and the only time I fogged a canopy is when I decided to first remove the masking and then spray a coat of flat. Not my brightest idea ever, but that's how you learn. The trick to canopies is Future. The first thing I do when I start on a kit is dunk the canopy in Future, lock them away in an closed drawer and let it set for a few days or even upto a few weeks. Just upto whenever I need it. The coat of Future protects the canopy against superglue fumes or any other kind of glue fumes. I doubt it'll help against the flat coat, but I'm not doing that again.... So, after the superglue this is what it looks like: ![]() ![]() ![]() And then it's time for the most dreaded of moments: the white coat. I've always had trouble spraying white, so I decided to change my approach. Saw Phil do it in a few videos, never tried it, so here goes. First put the thinners in the color cup, then add paint. Stir and happy spraying. Yup, happy spraying. I never had so few problems spraying white. Yay. ![]() ![]() Now I don't know if you can see it on the photo's, but when looking at the real model the white isn't an even coat. On some parts it's brighter than others. Which is nice because it breaks it up a bit. I'm still pondering a postshade with some very light grey, but I want to let this dry anyway before I start masking it. And yes, I just noticed on the photo one of the actuators is upside down. I was sure I had them in correctly a while back In hindsight - perhaps adding the pylons now wasn't the best idea ever....
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